How to Save the World, by Tom Aikens

Michelin-starred chef Tom Aikens hobbles over to greet me at his eponymous restaurant in Chelsea. He’s wearing green Havaianas but his feet are wrapped in white gauze and what looks like masking tape.  Up close they are beet red, bruised, and absolutely battered. One of his toenails is oozing with pus and about to fall off. The soles of his feet have had three layers of skin ripped off.

S: What have you gotten yourself into now?

T: Marathon des Sables. Six marathons in five days in the Southern Moroccan desert for Facing Africa. 

S: Oh. Why the extremism and why this charity?

T: I did it with Facing Africa because it’s the only way to get to run for the race. Otherwise, it’s booked up about two to three years ahead. It’s the hardest foot race in the world.

S: But now you can’t walk and look slightly skeletal.

T: Do I? I have no ass anymore.

He stands up to show me. I poke it.

S: It’s okay. What other charities are you supporting these days?

T: I get asked to donate to so many. I find it very difficult to say ‘no’. They say ‘can you offer a prize? Say, cook for a table of ten?’. I’ve done World Food Organization, I’ve done WWF, I’ve done Greenpeace…

A young male chef walks up to us with a metal mixing bowl.

T: (sharply) Yes. What’s up?

Young Chef: Uh, consistency for tapenade?

He tilts the bowl toward Tom.

T: Oui oui oui oui yeah that’s fine that’s cool have you done the hummus yeah?

YC: Yeah, left it quite a bit lumpy

T: Make sure it’s not too lumpy yeah that’s gotta be smooth. The lentil one you can leave a little bit grainier.

YC: Lentil one? 

Young chef scurries off.

T: [in full flow]… done work with children’s charities, I’ve done work with women in cancer hospitals, I’ve done one with— what’s that local Chelsea hospital…?

S: What about donating leftover food? £10 billion of food is wasted every year in the UK. What about Love Food Hate Waste, Love Food Champions…

T: There’s not really much wasted food. The leftover food that is acceptable to eat we give to staff. The main waste is packaging: cardboard, plastic, bottles. We recycle that. Obviously, there’s a lot of food you can’t eat. A lot of the waste is peelings from vegetables, bones, scraps from people’s plates. Unless your food is crap, the only way of combating leftover food from people’s plates is portion control.

S: What’s your favorite leftover?

T: My grandmother’s Bubble & Squeak.

S: Have you had Maria’s at Borough Market?

T: I was there yesterday but I had toast and marmalade.

S: I’ll be seeing her this week. I’ll tell her you say hello.

T: Tell her I was the one in the running outfit.

Young chef returns with his bowl.

T: Yes?

YC: Hummus.

T: A little bit smoother, mate.

S: How’d the lentils turn out?

T: Did you do the lentils?

YC: I’m trying to get a hold of Ginger… but…. But I think it’s guacamole not lentils.

T: (Pause) You’re right. You’re off the hook then.

Young chef scurries off, proudly.

S: You’re pretty calm. You’re a changed man since our last interview three years ago...

T: Am I? Before I was a little woohoo. I’ve been through a fucking lot. No one will ever know. Until I write about it in my biography.

Remember those two extra lamb shanks I had you make in the first post? They were intentional leftovers with an excellent purpose:

Slow Braised Lamb Ragu with Tagliatelle

This feeds two with a side of steamed seasonal greens drizzled with white balsamic and olive oil. (Bread also helps.) This serves one, on the other hand, if you’re wildly hungover and craving creature comforts. But at those times, I just like cheese.

Take your two leftover lamb shanks (3 days max lifespan in fridge) and reserve the sauce—which has now congealed along with it. Shred the shanks, making sure you get rid of all the fat, skin, or anything you wouldn’t like to eat. You’ll see it. 100% meat is so much more pleasant.

continue...